Blueberry
Needs genuinely acidic soil (pH 4.5-5.5) to thrive; most New Zealand garden soil is too close to neutral without amending with sulphur or growing in a container with ericaceous (acid) potting mix. Shallow, fibrous roots mean consistent moisture and a permanent mulch layer matter more than for most fruiting shrubs. Planting two different varieties, even though many are self-fertile, generally improves fruit set and size through cross-pollination.
- Sun
- full sun
- Water
- high
- Spacing
- 150cm
- Harvest
- Ready in about 2-3 years
- Difficulty
- intermediate
- Grows in
- Whangārei / Northland, Auckland, Hamilton / Waikato, Tauranga / Bay of Plenty, Gisborne, Napier / Hawke's Bay, New Plymouth / Taranaki, Palmerston North / Manawatū-Whanganui, Wellington, Nelson, Tasman, Blenheim / Marlborough, West Coast, Christchurch / Canterbury, Dunedin / Otago, Invercargill / Southland
- Expected yield
- 2-5kg per mature bush per season
- Cost to grow
- ~$20 NZD
- Grocery value
- ~$90 NZD
- Mature height
- 1.5m
- Flowering season
- Sep, Oct
- Evergreen
- No, deciduous
- Common diseases
- Botrytis (grey mould) in wet conditions, Root rot in poorly drained soil
- Common pests
- Birds (fruit), Aphids
When to plant by region
In Whangārei / Northland, Auckland, Hamilton / Waikato, Tauranga / Bay of Plenty, Gisborne, Napier / Hawke's Bay, New Plymouth / Taranaki, Palmerston North / Manawatū-Whanganui, Wellington, Nelson and Tasman: May-July. In Blenheim / Marlborough, West Coast, Christchurch / Canterbury, Dunedin / Otago and Invercargill / Southland: June-July.
Growing stages
Planting & establishmentBare-root or potted, autumn to winter
- Test or amend soil to a genuinely acidic pH (4.5-5.5) before planting; this is the single most common reason a blueberry bush struggles
- Keep a permanent mulch layer over the shallow root zone to retain moisture
- Water consistently while establishing; this is a high-water shrub, not a drought-tolerant one
Early growthFirst 1-2 years
- Remove flowers in the first year so the plant puts energy into establishing roots rather than fruit
- Watch for chlorosis (yellowing between leaf veins), a sign the soil has drifted back toward neutral pH
- Planting a second variety nearby improves cross-pollination and fruit set
Flowering & fruiting
- Bees, especially bumblebees, are the main pollinators; most varieties are self-fertile, but a second variety nearby noticeably improves fruit size and yield
- Net the bush as fruit ripens; birds will strip a crop faster than almost any other pest
- Botrytis (grey mould) can affect ripening fruit in wet weather; good airflow through the bush helps
MaturityOngoing annual harvest
- Established bushes yield 2-5kg per season, reached from around the second or third year
- Prune out old, unproductive wood in winter to keep the bush open and productive
- Pick berries once fully blue; unlike some fruit they don't ripen further once picked